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NATALIE IN CALIFORNIA ASKS: I’ve recently seen several stories about fast fashion and its immense environmental impact. How can I identify truly sustainable fashion for my family?
MOM DETECTIVE ANSWERS: Thank you for this question. We all purchase clothing, and buying sustainably instead of supporting fast fashion can have real positive impact. Changing your shopping habits can reduce our impact on the Earth and sends an important signal to companies about the kind of goods consumers want. It’s relatively easy too, once you know the basics.
Globally, 92 million tons of textiles are thrown away annually (that’s one dump truck of clothes going into a landfill every second). So the first step toward truly sustainable fashion is simple: purchase less. The items you do buy should be durably made from natural fibers that can be reused or composted.
Synthetic materials, like polyester, rayon, nylon, and acrylic, are all derived from fossil fuels. They’re not sustainable. Their production is chemically intensive and highly polluting from manufacture to “finishing.” Synthetics don’t break down in a landfill.
Plus, many fibers derived from plastics shed microscopic plastic bits, contributing to microplastic pollution in our environment, drinking water, and even our food. Every time synthetic fiber clothes are tossed into the washing machine, microplastics make their way to wastewater treatment plants and, ultimately, our oceans. (To help reduce microplastic migration, consider a microfiber-catching laundry bag.)
Labels like “stain-resistant,” “no wrinkle,” or “easy care” are signs that a garment is not sustainable. These textiles are often treated with PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), forever chemicals linked to a wide range of human health effects. Similarly, items labeled “antimicrobial” or “antibacterial” are not sustainable; they’re often treated with harmful chemicals.
Petroleum-derived fabrics are highly flammable so manufacturers often use flame-retardant chemicals to reduce the likelihood of them catching on fire. These chemicals can cause serious health concerns. Seek products that don’t contain flame-retardants, especially for sleepwear.
Leathers are also fraught. Animal leather requires many harsh chemicals to tan, dye, and otherwise process hides. Faux leather tends to be vinyl, which is so toxic from manufacture to disposal it has earned the nickname “poison plastic.”
There are new fabrics on the market that claim to be sustainable, and surely other inventive solutions are on the horizon. These new fabrics are technically better than synthetics and leathers but aren’t perfect. Take Tencel, which is derived from tree cellulose. Tencel is a good replacement for something like Spandex, but it is made using chemical solvents that are harmful.
Still, Tencel production is a closed-loop system, which means the chemicals are captured and reused, not discharged to the environment. Bamboo fabric is similarly tricky. While bamboo is a renewable source, the process of turning it into fiber often uses toxic substances.
To start transitioning your wardrobe, choose one responsibly made item and proceed from there. Seek out clothing made of natural and biodegradable materials, specifically organic cotton, wool, linen, silk, hemp, and alpaca.
Choosing biodegradable over synthetic materials means they’ll break down when disposed. If shopping for animal fibers, like wool or silk, be sure the seller has sourced these materials ethically.
EPA regulates some textiles, including antimicrobial ones and anti-odor clothing, but they’ve only ever banned nine chemicals for use in products. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) does regulate clothing textiles, including children’s sleepwear, but current laws don’t require consumer product manufacturers to test products for most hazardous chemical. CPSC primarily relies on voluntary standards developed by industry groups and has limited capacity for ensuring compliance.
In the absence of strong government regulation, one way to ensure your clothing purchases are free of harmful or toxic substances is to buy garments verified by independent, third-party textile certifications like: